Navaratri – Day 0 – VKTK
September 30, 2008
No trip to Kanchipuram is complete without a trip to the VKTK dhoti store. The selection of dhotis, saris, and beautiful silks is truly amazing. Each day of the Navaratri celebration will include a Suvasini Puja during which a younger and older woman will receive traditional gifts of a sari and other items. It is a charming way of making real the idea that women are the embodiment of the divine feminine.
We also ordered some custom woven shawls for the Navaratri Yagya sponsors.
First it was off to the vegetable market which must not have changed in hundreds of years. First was a stop at a stall run by on older woman whose specialty was banana leaves which are used instead of plates for meals; the ultimate in organic recyclable.
Then the vegetable stand where the proprietor sat in the middle of all the different vegetables. Jayashri (Seetharam’s wife) would say what she wanted, the guy’s wife would pick them, pass them over to her husband to weighwith an old fashioned balance scale, and then he’d dump them into the shopping bag. Efficient but it seems that you took whatever items he gave you…no sorting through to find just the best ones!
Then it was off to some Vishnu temples of which Chanchi has many. Unfortunately my camera developed a bad case of dead battery, so there are no photos.
The first temple was based on a story from the Mahabharatha in which Duryodhana invites Krishna to visit him and constructs a huge bamboo throne for him to sit on. In fact, the throne is so large that a number of the King’s men hid inside in order to kill Krishna.
But Krishna, sensing the King’s plan, simply expands in size, snapping the bamboo and crushing the soldiers. In this temple, Vishnu is shown seated, but about 20 feet tall. Carved in limestone instead of the usual granite, the detail and precision of the carving is extraordinary. The entire murti is covered in a black oil (casturi?) making the whole thing shine. The effect is quite impressive because clearly the temple was built around him and you don’t see the immense size until you are quite close up in the sanctum.
The second temple was from the same period and shows the Vamana incarnation of Vishnu with one foot on the demon King and the other straight over his head as he takes one step in each of the three worlds. Once again, at over 20 feet tall, the effect is very impressive.
Navaratri – Day 0 – Ganesha Yagya (fire ceremony)
September 29, 2008
After breakfast we start to do mantra japa (repetition) for Ganesha. 7 priests chanting and it is hard work! Not only are these guys fast, but they chant loudly, and while I can keep up, my throat quickly goes dry. But I struggle through and it is actually rather exhilarating to experience the power of these vedic experts. There is something very substantial going on. No doubt about it.
Then a representative from the Shankar Mutt here in Kanchipuram pays a visit to offer the Shankaracharya’s blessing for our yagya series and to ask for our support in the Navaratri festivities at one of the patasalas (training academy) that they operate. We sponsor, on behalf of all the puja.net participants, the flowers for the entire Navaratri time.
Then we go up on the roof where the homa kund (fireplace) is located. It is a warm day already, about 90 degrees and we are all about to sit around a sizable fire. Subramanyam has already decorated the homa kund with colored rice flour and arranged all the ingredients for the yagya.
The fire is lit and soon it is roaring warmly….very warmly!
The first section of the yagya involves offering the modaka balls into the fire as the Ganesha mantras are chanted. Of course these small dough pastries don’t burn all that well and they create clouds of smoke…which make my eyes burn but everyone else just continues on…apparently it is not professional to let the smoke burn your eyes! You must continue chanting and offering non-stop!
Then the special ingredients are offered; puffed rice, sesame seeds (which crackle nicely), sugar cane, etc. and more wood. Less smoke and 1008 more repetitions of the Ganesha Mula mantra from Rig Veda.
After about 1 1/2 hours the mantras are done and Sampath, the Chief Priest makes the final offering of ghee into the fire.
The last offering into the fire is called Poornadhuti and consists of puffed rice, pounded rice, coconut, banana, sugar cane, dry coconut slices, sesame seeds, pomegranate, green grass, all wrapped in a nice piece of white silk.
Then back downstairs for final pujas (called aarti). Subramanyam, our favorite Sama Veda pundit and the official decorator of the homa kund is standing next to me. This has been a wonderful morning and everyone is full of smiles. Yagyas are a lot of work for the priests and pundits and they are always pleased when it turns out well. It is now past 2 PM and time for lunch!
Navaratri – Day 0 – Ganesha Yagya
September 29, 2008
Technically today is not part of Navaratri (thus Day 0) but we are spending the time doing a big Ganesha Yagya. He is, after all, the remover of obstacles and the Lord of Beginnings. So we are going to begin the Navaratri program in the best way possible, with an entire day for Ganapati.
The priests have been working overtime assembling all the traditional ingredients for the nine day Navaratri sequence. Even Ganesha has eight special ingredients as seen below:
These are a fried sweet called modaka; batter on the outside and raw sugar (jaggery) and toasted coconut on the inside. Great for Ganesha’s legendary love of sweets. Next is fresh pomegranate seeds. Dried coconut cut into slices (below) and fresh sugarcane.
Below is what I think is vibhuti (sacred ash associated with Shiva) and on the right sesame seeds that will be mixed with honey before being offered into the yagya fire.
This is a special kind of grass that is a particular favorite of Ganesha, but I don’t know the proper name for it. On the right you see the bags of modaka (1008 are offered) and two bags, one of puffed rice and one of pounded rice.
After the Ganesha pujas at the beginning of the day, the routine is to perform Rudra Abishekam and Navagraha Puja for the nine planets, but particularly the planet and nakshatra of the day. Here you see the little murties; two Ganeshas, a Subramanyam, Shiva lingam, Vishnu is the form of a shaligram, a Meru and a copper yantra for the nine planets. The abishekam takes close to 2 hours because the entire Sri Rudram, Chamakam, Navaragra, Purusha Suktam, and Durga and Sri Suktams are chanted.
We started at 8 AM and by now it is past 10:30 so the priests take a break to recover their voices before starting the mantra japa.
The fire ceremony (havan or homam) will be covered in my next post……
India – Day 3, a cruel irony!
September 28, 2008
In the afternoons everything is pretty much closed and everyone enjoys the fine tradition of an afternoon siesta. The problem is that there are frequent power outages during the afternoon and today was no exception. It was hot, and the lack of a fan in the room made it hotter still. So here i am, a nice Los Angeles boy not used to much 100 degree heat and 80% humidity and there is no fan! Ouch.
Then someone in the parking lot below my room got a phone call and the ring tone seemed oddly familiar…then I recognize “Jingle Bells”!
India – Day 3
September 28, 2008
Today is Amayasya, the day of the New Moon, and a day for performing special pujas for ancestors. All the temples are full of people doing the pujas for their previous generations. Seetharam made arrangements for me to perform this for my family and for puja.net participants, at a very nice Shiva temple nearby. Unfortunately no photos were allowed.
Afterwards we went to check on the construction of the new yagya facility. It should be complete and ready for Shivaratri!
India – Day 2, evening
September 28, 2008
In the evening, as is the routine, we went what I call “temple hopping”, and Kanchipuram is certainly the place to do it. Fortunately Seetharam is a fantastic guide and knows so many great places to visit. This temple above is very ancient and is made primarily of sandstone. The Indian government manages the temple and it has been very nicely restored which is important because sandstone wears aways.
The story of the temple is that Brahma came here and did the first puja for this shiva lingam. The lingam is called Mrytunjayeshwara (if I recall correctly) which means that those who visit here will conquer (jaya) death (mrytu). Since we have been doing mrytunjaya yagyas for the past 10 years this is an appropriate place for us to have a nice puja. It was the monthly shivaratri when we visited and the lingam was beautifully decorated.
When the temple was reopened the Shankaracharya came to bless the proceedings. The temple priest, who is quite a character, told us that the Shankaracharya was planning to do a lot of publicity to help bring more people to the temple. The local priest insisted that he not do it.
“Why,” asked the Shankaracharya, “More publicity means more people and better income for you.”
“More people means more money, and that always means more problems. Brahma has created this place, let him advertise it,” said the priest. So it remains quiet and peaceful here.
A small Rahu/Ketu area in the shade of a large tree.
Shiva subduing a demon.
Shiva as Nataraj….Lord of Dance. The age of the temple is apparent here with the wearing away of the sandstone surface
Nandi, Shiva’s bull, calmly looking over everything
Who says the ancients didn’t have a sense of humor?
India – Day 2
September 27, 2008
It is always a good thing when jet lag diminishes. Life is much more enjoyable and breakfast this morning looked especially delicious. The restaurant in the hotel has superior food. Today was dosa, a thin pancake served with coconut, tomato, and green chutneys to dip it in. I ate two. Plus the south indian coffee which is like a latte although stronger and you just drink maybe 4 oz.
Then off for the Daily Yagya. Of course it was as enjoyable as usual. Nice Rudra Abishekam….
Then up onto the roof for the fire yagya. I saw the wood sticks and mentioned that there seem to be a lot of them, which made the two priest laugh. “This is nothing,” they said, “we ordered 1,000 pieces of wood like this, plus 10,000 small sticks (about 4″) for the whole Navaratri Yagya!”
Then the yagya…
During a yagya the pujari peforms the yagya, while the other priests chant as Seetharam is doing here on the right. In addition, there is always one priest who sits to the side of the main priest and just observes. This individual is called the Brahma, and represents Brahma, the Creator who is the witness to all of creation. So today, I fulfilled the role of Brahma. Not bad…Creator for a day.
India – Day 1, evening
September 27, 2008
We ended day one with visits to the Kamakshi temple (seen below) and the huge Kapileshwara (Shiva) temple. In both cases we were able to go right in and it was fantastic to see the evening aarti with all the big camphor lamps being waved in front of Kamakshi Devi. Afterwards we sat outside and watched a rain shower which was quite peaceful. I was thinking that the scene would have been pretty much the same 500 or more years ago.
Then it was off to the Kapileshwara Shiva temple. When we arrived the evening pujas were just ending and the deity was being carried thorugh the temple. We walked through the rest of it remembering how full it was during Shivaratri and how empty it was today.
India – Day 1
September 26, 2008
It is good, really good, to be back in India for Navaratri. Even that first moment when you walk out of the Chennai airport at 1 AM and feel the humidity and smell the exhaust…it is still India and the excitement is never diminished. Of course reaching Kanchipuram, which is fairly rural, is even better. The palm trees sway in the breeze and look exotic and the air smells fresh and clean…as long as you are away from the streets which are as crowded as ever.
The yagya house is still the same and up on the roof the dal processing plant has finished adding on a second floor. When I was last here for Shivaratri, the work had just begun. There is still an endless stream of ox drawn carts coming here during the day loaded down with dal to be processed.
Even though we got back at 2 AM, at 8 AM the next morning, we start the daily yagya. It is nice to hear the familiar sound of Rudram being chanted and to hear Seetharam’s voice chanting the vedas again.
We are joined by Ganeshan who is a Rig Veda pundit. Together they perform the Rudra Abishekam and all the other pujas for the nine planets, and the goddesses. Here you see him covering the little murtis with perfumed sandal paste. The smell fills the room…another one of those association with being in India.
After the pujas and abishekam we head up to the roof to perform the fire ritual called havan or homam. Since it is still early in the morning, the breeze is cool and the brilliant blue sky is delightful. By the time we are done it is 11:30. What a great way to spend a morning.
#10 Divisional Charts
September 25, 2008
We examine various Jyotish techniques used to analyse specific areas of life through the use of Divisional charts, or amshas. The birth chart (rasi) is used to see overall areas of life, but if you divide each sign into 9 parts, then you can derive another chart called the Navamsha to see marriage, or you can use the 10th divisional chart to see career, or the 5th division to see children, etc.
